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| Stupas infront of Kaza Monastery |
The day started with a small
climb on the hill in front of our hotel, towards the caves. The cliffs above the
ancient Tabo Monastery have been hollowed out by several caves. These artificial
cavities served and still serve as dwellings for monks during the harsh winters
of Himalaya. Our guide told us that these caves were used by sages to meditate
also.
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| One of the many Caves @Tabo |
There were N number of such caves
around those hills. Some of the caves
have well defined structures and some are small caves barely having any
structure and having just enough space for one or at max two people, some have almost
black walls some have light markings on the walls. Few paintings are also exhibited
in one of the bigger caves managed by the government. By the time we climbed down (at
around 8.30 AM) the sun came into its full form, giving the feel of the 12.00PM
noon.
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| Top View of Tabo Monastery |
We went ahead to visit the
ancient Tabo Monastery, it is believed to be 2nd oldest Monastery of
the world next only to the Tholing Gompa in Tibet. It was built by a Buddhist
king in 996 A.D.
and was rebuilt after the earthquake in 1975.
Inside the monastery there is a
group of 9 temples and 23 chortens. One group of temples is regarded as earlier
construction while yet another group belongs to a later period. There are
paintings on the inside walls and roof of the temples.
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| Stupas inside the monastery |
There are many priceless
collections of thankas (scroll paintings), manuscripts, well-preserved statues,
frescos and extensive murals which cover almost every wall. To preserve the
paintings not much of light is allowed inside the temples, our guide showed us
with the help of the torch. Our next halt was “The Monastery”
Café. We ordered breakfast there: Tibetan bread & Kohtey Momos are must try
here..
We were off to Kaza at around
11.30 AM the roads were becoming worse than ever loose rocks keep sliding down
the hill, due to the blowing wind but mainly cattle roaming around the hills.
So one has to be very careful while driving, keep looking around if stones are
shooting down. The Spiti river flowing along the road with shallow, clear
waters formed spiral shape, Kris-cross silver snake like figures on the ground which can
make anyone’s heart ache to touch it, feel the life through the chilled water,
dip your feet to feel the shiver inside your spine, experience the calmness and
serenity of the place.
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| View of Spiti Valley |
At Schilling there is a diversion
(toward right) for Dhankar, ascend of 15-20Km toward the Dhankar Gompa. Most of
the road was newly constructed, but a very narrow road with lots steep
elevation turns. The more you ascend, better is the view of valley. After
around 30-45mins to drive through the diversion, there lies the Dhankar Gompa
standing beautifully at the Corner mount of one the taller hills. The beautiful
sand formation (made due to wind erosion) were standing tall at the other side of
the road. The Gopma is overlooking the confluence of pin and spiti river and it is
one of the most spectacular locations for a Monastery.
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| Dhankar Monastery |
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| View from Dhankar |
After visiting the complex we
went down towards Schilling, on the way we met few local taxi drivers and
enquired about the route towards Pin Valley & Mud Village, but to our
despair there was flood in Pin Valley, even the locals were not travelling to
that side of valley, we had to forgo our plan of visiting Pin Valley. We moved
ahead towards our final destination “Kaza”.
Our Stay again was at “The Grand
Dewachen, Rangrik” the hospitality of the hotel staff and Rajinder ji (Owner)
was commendable. We realized one thing that people are more courteous,
hospitable and friendly in this part of Himachal Pradesh compared to the
popular tourist destinations such as Shimla & Manali. Another humble
gesture was that the Hotel manager was our guide during our stay in Kaza.
Then we followed the below route:
Kaza - Langza – Hikkim – Komik –Kaza
According to our manager Mr
Mahinder, Langza was supposed offer the most spectacular views of the
entire Spiti Valley. As soon as we started our ascend towards Langza the wind
suddenly became colder and colder. The brown barren fields were changing to
the green farming fields, looking like well-crafted grass meadows at the slope
of the hills. We reached a hilltop, having green meadows of grass, farming
fields with combination of greens, violet and brown forming a zig-saw puzzle,
small colonies of mud houses painted with white and brown, and snow covered
huge mountains surrounded the village from in all the 4 visible directions, we
soon realised that Mr. Mahinder was explaining about this beautiful village
known as Langza. It feels as if the time has stopped here, the
atmosphere is so calm and serene here, you might as well agree to spend your
lifetime. The pre-condition might be that you are able to cope up with such high
altitudes and extra chilled weather. Before inhabitation of Komik, Langza
was the Asia’s highest village where people actually reside.
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| Langza |
Soon after crossing Langza we
reached the hill overlooking Hikkim. The world’s highest Post Office is
located in Hikkim, and Indian Post Red Logo claiming the same, can be seen from
distance. We didn’t go inside the village and went ahead towards Komik,
as we were approaching Komik the wind was becoming chiller and chiller.
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| Top view of Hikkim |
We crossed through small patches of snow covered mountains and finally we
reached the top of the hill. Very small village with total population of 114
people and altitude of 4,513 metres from the sea level. The Komik Monastery is
situated at one edge of the hill top, Skin of a snow leopard is hanging at the
entrance of the Monastery. For some reason Women are not allowed to enter the
monastery, so Rahul went inside with a kind Monk who agreed to guide him
through the Gompa while I enjoyed some time alone sitting on the edge of the
hill, looking at the endless snow covered mountain ranges, without even the
slightest of the sound except for the shrieking sound of blowing wind.
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| Skin of Snow Leopard at the Door of Komik Monastery |
We headed back to Kaza via
different route which was narrower from earlier, it was from the back side of
the same hill, offering some excellent views of Kaza from the top. The vast
Spiti River, recently seeded farming fields, the slant rays of the sun (at
sunset) giving it all a majestic effect.
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| One of the Narrow oneway road to Kaza |
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| View from the road side |
After coming down we went to Kaza to get some fuel,
hopping that the electricity will be there to run the pump. We reached the
petrol pump and then realized it is world highest retail outlet, we went to the
Kaza monastery to try our luck if it is open, and bingo!! We went inside the
monastery, and it’s a newly built monastery with moderns structure and by far the
most beautiful monastery I have ever visited.
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| Front view of Kaza Monastery |
The main temple was decorated
with bright colors and a wall of golden statues of various Gods. The next day
Kalachakra Mandala Ceremony was supposed to happen, for that they made beautiful Sand Mandala.
The kind Monk explained the logic behind the ceremony. The Sand Mandala is a Tibetan Buddhist tradition involving the creation and destruction of mandalas made from colored sand. Once the sand mandala is completed the associated ceremonies are performed and mandala is viewed, and after that it is rituastically destroyed to symbolize the Buddhist doctrinal belief in the transitory nature of material life.
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| Sand Mandala @ Kaza Monastery |
We walked around the village market
and then went back to hotel spent some time in the huge Baramdah, had an awesome dinner
and retired to sleep at around 9.30PM.
Next day again we had to start early.. Journey of day7 will be followed soon..
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