Tuesday 30 December 2014

Nako & Tabo: Here we enter the Spiti Valley


Day4:
Detailed Route: Kalpa – Reckong Peo – Powari  – Riba – Jangi – Spellow – Pooh – Kashigs – Nako – Malling Nala – Sumdo – Tabo

We started at around 9.00 in the morning, today was supposed to be the longest and one of the most exciting days of our journey. Our plan was to reach Tabo via Nako. Unlike rest of the trip there was a huge “Karavan” of vehicles. Soon we got stuck because of traffic jam near Shongtong, which cleared soon and we moved forward. There is a bridge somewhere near Riba which is a single lane bridge and while we drove on it, the movement of wooden logs underneath can be felt and heard easily. The one way route means again a wait of arroun 20 -30mins.
Wooden Bridge
Few kms ahead of it, land clearing process was going on. There had been a landslide due to the blasting of mountains. We waited there for around half an hour under the scorching sun and chilly wind, what a combo!!  By now, my nose had become Reddish-pink and Patchy.. Kudos to the Heat of Sun!!

Once bulldozer cleared the road we resumed our journey amidst of dusty and broken path. Soon we found a small tea counter managed by Indian Army in the middle of nowhere. You can find good tea, coffee, biscuits and clean washroom here for free. Once Hats-off to our Diffence Services!! After refreshments we started again on the dusty road and every now and then there was a signboard saying that “You are travelling on the world’s most treacherous road” filled our chest proud and sense of achievement.

We had to halt at Jangi check post to get ourselves registered. Once you cross Jangi the tarmac is excellent. The roads kept improving from the moment, we witnessed the confluence spiti & Sutlej river. Here we entered the Spiti region, inhabited with Tibetan people and highly influenced with Tibetan culture. The Villages having entrance through beautiful arches, white & maroon mud houses built in small groups, lots of villages having population of 30-100, white golden stupas just confirming the arrival in Spiti Valley.

Arches for entering the village
Kashigs has a freshly laid jet black road, full of curves which welcomes you while ascending towards Nako. Hereon the views on both sides of road were exhilarating.

We reached Nako at around 2.00-2.30PM. First thing we did, was to head for lunch and try to charge our camera, but to our bad luck there was no electricity. After lunch we started to explore the village and Nako Lake. We took a walk around the village and the lake. The Lake was beautiful but not as magnificent I had imagined in my head, but it gave some clear reflections of the brown mountains and trees standing at its bank. Spent some time talking and walking around the lake. Visited the monastery and headed back to our car. It’s a small village having quite a few staying options.
Nako Lake
 
Nako Lake 2

Nako Village
There was a small group of cute little children which was happly playing, falling and posing for photgraphs. By the time we reached our car it was around 4.00 PM, we quickly got into the car and started our journey further.

The road till Malling Nala was in very bad conditions after that there were some good and some bad patches but the tarmac were awesome. The sheer glimpse of the landscape was enough to take our breath away. Soon we crossed Sumdo and there was a stretch of flat road, not much ascends or descends make up for a quick drive. Suddenly the sun wasn’t that sharp, wind was chiller, silver glaze was created by the reflection of sunlight through the river, dark blue/black mountains on one side and shining golden mountains on the other side of the road made a sight forced us to immediately stop the car,  step out to have closer and longer look at this scenery of nature.
En-route Views
 
en-route views
Tabo a beautiful quite village at the foot of huge barren mountains. It was one of the most beautiful village we encountered during this trip (not to mention we encountered so many such villages during this journey). Very small village having its entrance through the beautiful green arch, having verses written in Tibetan  language.

We stayed at Hotel Dewachen, the best hotel in Tabo, it’s the same hotel where star cast of “Highway” stayed while shooting. Luckily we got the room with best view from the balcony and believe me you don’t wanna miss sunset while sipping tea in your own personal balcony having such magnificent view.
View From our room


View from other side 
 
After getting refreshed we went ahead for the walk around the village, the Tabo Monastery was closed by the time we reached there, so it was postponed for the next day.

Stupa Outside Tabo Monastary
The Monastery Restaurant is a must try, we got the most delicious and awesome Tibetan food of the entire region. While having food you can chit chat with Monks, as this is the common stopover for them. We were off to bed soon after having dinner thinking that our adventure for the day has ended, but there was something more to it..
Suddenly, at around 3.30 AM there was a loud bang on the door, Rahul went out to check, it was our driver having some symptoms of Altitude sickness, acute chest pain & breathlessness. So Rahul took him for a walk at those wee hours and gave him zintac to relieve him from gastric problem. Finally we went back to sleep.

Next leap would be towards our last destination of the Tour Kaza...

Thursday 11 December 2014

Day3: Sangla Valley: Chittkul, the most beautiful & last village of Indo-Tibet Border + Signatue Rakcham Walk

Itinerary Followed: 

Day 3: We started at 5 AM in the morning (1 hr drive) to Chhitkul, the journey itself was giving the glimpse of the pictureous village we were about to reach!!




On the way to Chittkul



Ont the way to Chhitkul

At the very first sight of it, I actually had to pinch myself to believe my eyes.The snow covered speechless white mountains on one side creating an effect as if you have reached end of the world, green mountains one the other side signifying the life in this serene place, river Baspa flowing by the side of it, the farms at the center of those huge mountain and a small village amidst of this heavenly beauty is Chhitkul!!

Dead End, with Snow Covered mountains
Other Side of the Village
At that vary moment I regretted my decision of not coming here the previous day and spending some more time, imagining that sunset would have been an amazing sight. Nevertheless, we spent our time walking around the village speaking to our guide and understanding life and routine of the village. After spending 2 hours there we had our breakfast in the open watching the sun going high up in the sky.
At around 8.30 we started our journey back, headed towards Rakcham village, to do the famous Rakcham walk. The walk was supposed to take 4 hours and we wrongly assumed that it will be a“Walk”.
We realized that, soon we will be out of Gas, so told our driver to go to the nearest petrol pumps to get some fuel, but all in vain as there was no gas in the petrol pumps because of the landslide petrol tankers could not cross tapri. Our last hope was to get some gas at Reckong Peo and we kept our fingers crossed for the same.
We started our walk at around 8.30AM, the surrounding views made us awestruck. The flat brown farming fields, surrounded by the huge mountains, the criss-cross river flowing at the far sight. It was kind off easy walk through those fields.

@ Rakcham Walk
Suddenly out of no where, we entered into the jungle of tall pine trees, having a thin stream of water flowing by our side… As we continued walking we entered the fields of dried plant and as soon as you cross that, there lies the wide open field with Baspa River covering its significant area. We took a halt there for few minutes as our guide told that the walk from there is going to be little tough. It was far more than “little tough” for people like me who are non-climbers rather non-walkers ;-). From there on Bapsa(river) accompanied us through the entire walk.

Baspa: Wide and Open
From there onwards either it was a steep climb up or a steep climb down, through the path full of small & big stones. The landscape was mesmerizing and drastically changing every 15 mins, but it took a troll out of us, so much so that avoid little longer route (going up and then coming down) we took a broken smaller route to save our little energy.

Rakcham Walk
The narrow stone path was broken in the middle, there was a steep valley under that broken route which can be easily seen through the huge crack in the path. We stuck to the mountain and crossed through that gap, to add to our accomplishment, our guide told that he has never ever took anybody from this route :-) :-)

After a few minutes walk, we had to cross a steep, melting glacier. Underneath which a river was flowing and the snow was loose and slippery at places. We had to cross that one by one so that not much weight is on the snow at once. I was dead scared at that moment, we had no option but to walk on the glacier and luckily we crossed it quite comfortably.


The Glacier: though it not looking scary in pic but its very steep ;-)
After crossing the glacier we halted by the riverside, under the shadow of a tree to have lunch, much needed doze of energy and then resumed our walk. Finally at around 2.00 PM we reached the Batseri village, it was a sign of relief. At around 2.30-3.00 PM we reached our camp sight.
Took some rest there and after a refreshing Hot water bath, we started our ride towards Kalpa. As soon as we crossed Karcham the worst patch of road so far, greeted us. The roads are ruined by the JP’s Power Plant Project so much so that the car can’t be driven on a speed more than 20Km/hour and believe me I am not exaggerating not even by 1%.
Finally after two hours of bumpy ride we reached RecKong Peo. A range of snow peaked mountains surrounding us and right at the center of those peaks there lies the “Kinner Kailash peak”, in shape of “Shiv Linga”, covered with snow and rising little higher from the neighboring peaks. There is a 3 days round trek which takes you to the Kinner kailsah, where devotees offer their prayers to the Lord Shiva.
Kinner Kailash Peak: Right in the middle
First thing we did, was to look for the petrol pump (@ Reckong Peo), and luckily enough we got the petrol. As we had to travel to Kaza so the helper filled our tank full unlike few others. We were sorted for next two days’ fuel supply.
We reached our hotel at around 6.30PM with zero energy to do anything including dinner. Lying on the bed watching the sun to set through those orange peaks was the best one could have done and we exactly did the same.
We just ordered few Manchurian and noodles to our room (which tasted real bad) and went to sleep.

More exciting Days to come..






Monday 1 December 2014

Day 2: Sangla: Beautiful Valley, a Gateway to the Unexplored Land

We made our Thumb rule for the trip start early and reach early. Travelling after dark might be dangerous in this part of Himalayas as the roads are not in good condition, your car can break down anytime, limited supply of petrol at times, most of the area is prone to landslides, not much fellow travelers on this route, scarcely inhabited region, long patches of off-road travel, and if it rains then huge slushes and water puddles greet you with open arms..
As soon as we crossed jeori the tarmac changed dramatically and suddenly we were into a different world all together. Beautiful, narrow (rather very narrow) roads are chiseled through the huge mountains to make a way for you. Certainly it is a very thrilling drive though you have to be very careful while driving and should to salute the workers who built these dangerous paths.
Beautiful Narrow Road Chiseled through the mountain
Road cut through the mountain





The thin line inside the red box the the road
The condition of the road is very good. We quickly covered our distance till tapri by 9.30AM only to know that the pass to the other side is operational as one way at a time. Because of the landslide we were supposed to take an off route through upsi village and this was kind off one way, pass was available every 2 hours from each side.
So we had to wait till 11 AM for pass to open. At 9.30 the sun was pitty sharp, but the cool breeze was making the weather bearable. But you have to be really careful for the sun burns incase you are moving out of shade.
Finally at 11.20 AM the road was open for us to pass, as the traffic from other side had been stopped. It took almost an hour to cover that off-route distance of 18KMs. After crossing Tapri we took a right through a bridge (near Karcham) towards Sangla. Though the distance from Karcham to Sangla was around 25 kms but the entire journey was almost off-road, shooting stones from the top is a common sight there. All thanks to the JP’s power project!!
Power Plant Project
Finally we reached the Sangla valley at around 2PM, all our tiredness was gone in just one look of the valley. Beautiful lush green Baspa valley, surrounded by huge green snowcapped mountains, baspa flowing in full current with its crystal clear water, pine trees standing tall on both side of the river and small residential establishments on either side, looked as if we have entered in some fairy land. 
Baspa Valley
We stayed in Kinner Camps and to add to our happiness Lama was there that day for the lunch. We were fortunate enough to have a brief discussion with him. After having lunch (which was DELICEOUS!), we had a detailed discussion with our camp manager on what all should we visit and at what time. He suggested to go to Chhitkul right away and next day for rakcham walk. But because of our laziness we rested in the camp and decided to do both next day morning.
View from our camp
In the evening we went ahead to take a small walk to the village Batseri Village. It was one of the most relaxing walk first by the river side and then through the small and calm roads of the village.
Walk towards Basteri
Baspa River from the Camp
There we reached a temple of Lord Vishnu and were lucky to witness a ritual, where in the two men (villagers) carry the idols of God on their shoulders (there were extended wooden logs attached to the idol on both sides, through which it can be carried on shoulder similar to the “Doli of Indian Bride”), move back & forth and share their problem to the idol of Gods and priest with a hope that their problems will be resolved. At the back of it, the musical instruments creates joyful sounds. I had never witnessed such way of prayer anywhere.
Spent our evening relaxing in the camp with bonfire, music and delicious dinner. We were off to bed early as next day we had to start our day at 5 AM.

Journey of 3rd day will follow soon..








Tuesday 25 November 2014

Kinnaur & Spiti Valley




Now when Ladakh has become such a popular travel destination, I had to look for another Offbeat location in Himalayas which can be a gateway to another world with exceptional views, different culture, adventurous road travel, untouched / unspoiled beauty and not much commercialization, the obvious choice was Kinnaur and Spiti Valley. I had been longing for this trip for last 4 years now (soon after I returned from Ladakh :-) :-) ) and finally Rahul (my husband) agreed to accompany me on the trip.

So there started the ‘Marathon’ Planning phase with lots of secondary research for the places to be visited and the routes to be followed. First thing I did was to freeze the itinerary depending on the road conditions, landslides occurred recently, opening and closing of passes and many other things, also to have atleast one Plan B if KunzumLa doesn’t open on our travel time, keep 1-2 days extra in our original itinerary to accommodate the longer return path.

As our tenure had two weekends so hotel booking on those dates was bit of a concern, as on those days we were at very famous tourist destinations, so getting the rooms at run time might be a difficult task. Read lots of hotel reviews as I wanted to stay in good hotels, few places in our itinerary were really remote so getting much option/reviews online was really difficult, but somehow we got the best rooms we could have managed.

We were all set for our journey and on Friday evening (6th June) we started our trip to Spiti Valley with a plan to travel though the most treacherous road in the world.

Friday night we stayed at Kumar Hatti, and considering it is a hilly area, the weather was pleasant during the night. But I couldn’t sleep properly because of the excitement of the upcoming trip.



Day1: Sarahan: We entered the Land of Gods

Day1: Next day we were all set to start (9am) our real journey to the Spiti valley via Sarahan-sangla-kalpa. I wasn’t feeling good may be because of paucity of sleep, so most of the route I was sleeping in the Car.  
Route to Sarahan


We reached Sarahan at 5 in the evening. The first view of the village is very calm and peaceful. The small city/village is en-circled with snow covered mountain range peeping through every corner of the city and right in the center there is “Bhimakali Temple” which is also a “Shakti peeth”.


View from our room

In the evening we went to the temple for Arti. There is a “dharamshala” in the corridor of the temple where stay arrangements can be made. And a basic canteen is also available in the temple corridor. After crossing that area we entered the main temple building, we had to leave mobiles, watches, wallets, belts and all leather things/equipment outside the temple. The main building has a small but beautiful entrance. It is a padoga style temple having delicate wood carvings on each corner possible. There is a small staircase which takes you to the main temple. The idol of Devi is on the 3rd floor of the building. Walking through the narrow pathway we reached the place.



Main Temple
Rahul in front of Shiva temple

The aarti was at 8.00PM, so we spent sometime in the open area in front of the temple & went back again and believe me the way people do arti here is an experience in itself. It starts with the chants of the priest and ends with the joyful sounds of various musical instruments.
View from the Temple Complex



After aarti we took a walk through the small village, purchased few medicines for our journey ahead and went to sleep in our hotel room with a thought that we should have planned for an extra day for Sarahan, being unaware of the fact what lies beyond.



We stayed at a Green Valley Hotel contact no. 98166-86789, 98161-85518, 94180-92894. HPTDC hotel is also there at a very good location but unfortunately it was full on the day we needed. Also stay arrangements are available at the temple.









Wednesday 5 November 2014

Day 7, 8 & 9: Khardungla & Nubra Valley

Day 7:  Leh – Nubra Valley (Car) +Day 8 & 9: Nubra Valley– Leh (Car) + Leh – Delhi (via flight)

Day 7: We were very excited for Khardungla and Nubra Valley. But we were little late to start, we started at around 10-10.30 AM. We found a traffic Jam a few Kms before Khardungla. It got cleared in the sometime and we reached the highest motor able Pass in the World “Khardungla”.  It is at the altitude of 18380ft. 



View from Khardungla
The low oxygen of the atmosphere can be felt easily here, it is suggested to walk slowly and not to exert yourself.  We had a hot cinnamon tea to cope up with the chilly wind.

Cinamon Tea with our aviators
We were on the move for our next destination, we reached north pullu where we had to submit our inner line permit to go further. Once you cross khalsar there is a road diversion which takes you to Diskit. And indeed we made a very good decision. As soon you start ascending for Diskit the scenery changes from arid desert to small patches of greenery. The famous vistas of Nubra valley can be experienced here.

On our way to Nubra Valley
 

 We had to divert from our path to visit the monastery, we told Dorji to skip it because of our tiredness and laziness. But he insisted to visit it and we decided to go for it. There is a Diskit Monastery, which is at the top most position of the Hill. It feels like you are on top of the world and surrounded by green farmer’s valley with Desert like mountains at its backdrop. To add to it there were children dressed up in traditional tibetiyan style. After talking to them we got to know that Sonu Nigam’s shoot was going on their.

View from the Temple
  

Little girl all ready for the shoot
 We descended back from The Monastery and reached Hunder. Amidst of the farming fields and orchids  fields there lies the sand dunes. Everything you can expect from a landscape. Hunder is famous for its sand dunes and two humped camels. A small cannel was flowing by the dunes and there were huge barren mountains behind it.

First Glimpse of the Sand Dunes
Two Humped Camels
Sand Dunes having Golden Mountains at its Back Drop

Mesmerised..
 We enjoyed the ride at the back of two humped camels and then played with water at the canal. After being total exhausted we headed back to our hotel. Our plan here was to stay in the tents in middle of the sand dunes, but we could get an place there. So we headed to a hotel in Diskit, and I must tell I wasn’t at all disappointed with it. The room was so beautiful and had an equally beautiful Lawn. And after a small break we all got settled in the lawn.

After Spending few minutes there we saw a lot of hustle bustle at the parking till the entrance which is rare sight in this region. And there its Sonu Nigam walking with his crew to reside in the room across ours. I was so happy to find that. Soon after dinner, there was no electricity in the region, And that’s when we noticed the moon and stars were at full glow. One should must experience the sky in night at nubra, full of stars like the milky way.

Night @ Nubra
It was the perfect end to our day listening to sonu nigam humming his own songs in such weather and surroundings. One cannot ask for more.

Day 8: Today was the last day of our trip, we were all said with the very fact that tomorrow we have to leave this majestic land and go back to the respective cities and with our routine life.
Another sight of Khardungla
On that note we started our journey back to Leh. We reached Leh at the lunch time. We had lunch in one of the restaurants in the market and explored market bought few souvenirs and went back to our hotel. After a lot of Gup-shup in our room we were off to bed. We Had to catch an early morning flight back to Delhi.
Day 9: We all woke up at around 5 in the morning, and boarded our cab for airport at around 6 AM, and left for the airport to catch our flight back to our diverse destinations. But we had one feeling in common, that we didn’t have enough of ladakh and need to come back for more… And after having so many trips to Himalayas, my belief has been much stronger that you need spend a lifetime to have enough of these mighty Himalayas.

Monday 3 November 2014

Day 5 & 6: Leh to Pangong and back...

Itinerary:
Day 1: Delhi – Manali (Volvo)
Day 2:  Manali– Jispa (Car)
Day 3: Jispa– Leh (Car)
Day 4: Local Sight Seeing (Car)

Day 5: Leh– Pangong (Car) + Day 6: Pangong – Leh (Car)

Day 7:  Leh – Nubra Valley (Car)
Day 8 & 9: Nubra Valley– Leh (Car) + Leh – Delhi (via flight)

First Glimpse of  TsoPangong 
Day 5: This way the day to feel the much talked about, TSO PANGONG. The route to Pangong was as exciting as the lake itself. By now we got acclimatize with the high altitudes and also we were sipping garlic water every now and then to prevent any kind of altitude sickness. So we happily crossed the zig-zag roads of the brown mountains and hopped from one to another mountain..

Zig-zag Roads to Chagla
On the way to Pangong
We crossed the 3rd Highest Motor able Pass in the World -  The mighty ChangLa at the altitude of 17800 Ft. Lot of vehicles were parked there, we found few army men also. From Changla one route goes towards the Siachen glaciers, hence lot of defence people were around that area. Never the less the views were awesome!!
Aakash with Army Man @ Changla
 As we started the descending the tarmac and the scenery, started getting greener and better. We halted near a meadow just capture the serenity is our heart forever, and experience the un-interrupted views of nature.
Few miles away there was a herd of yaks roaming around the field, so we stopped again to capture these magnificent creatures.
Few miles ahead of Changla

Pet Yaks: this white one was really short tempered ..
After around 6 Hours there is the first glimpse of the serene lake. It just looks as if you are part of painting. It looks like very fine strokes of a painter on the huge canvas of nature.
As you approach the lake, you the get to realise the magnificence of the lake by the time you reach its shore. Turquoise blue water having huge mountains at its backdrop makes it tranquil. The lake is approximately 130 KM long. And goes all the way to China, in fact 2/3rd lake is in China. If you move further along the lake after around 10 kms we reached our camp. Spent the evening by the lake side.  




We timed our visit to Tso pangong so that full moon night can be experienced, but our despair, entire night it was raining like cats and dogs. So much so that at once I felt that my tent will flown away with the blowing wind. Though our tents were very good, best tents I had ever stayed in.
The tents were cosy and warm and had attached toilet what more can you expect in the lap of serene nature and the Food was also above expectation. We were inside the tents soon as the weather was chilling.


Day 6: After few hours of thunderstorm there was a quite morning. The blue water of the pangong was bluer than ever. It was a bright sunny day with a clear blue sky giving its perfect reflection blue in the still waters of the Pangong Lake. We spent few hours just to admire the serenity of the Landscape. After spending few hours there we started our journey back to Leh.

Pangong in the morning

At the opposite side of the lake
Enroute to Changla we stopped on the roads for clicking photographs with the walls of snow and there the snowfall started.. It was the very first experience of snowfall for me and I thoroughly enjoyed it. After travelling kms, we again halted at Changla and played with fresh snow.
Lalit leaning against the snow
As usual we were accompanied by some awesome captions by the road side.


We reached Leh by the afternoon and had explored leh in the evening. We went to the Potala Palace and War memorial.



Enterance of the Palace
The Palace

View from the Palace
 The War memorial is full of the stories, pictures, maps and other artifacts of the Kargil War, War at Siachen Glacires and others.. And it brings out the patriotism hidden inside you and being an Indian one can easily be overwehlmed with the feeling of pride and honor just by reading the proceedings/ history of the wars and you feel like saluting to the matyrs, who devoted their lives for our Mother Land.
Proud Moment .. infront of the War Memorial
Rest of the journey will be published soon.. :)